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Food of Surat

Ghari and Chandani Padva

Why one sweet has its own festival night in Surat, and how the city eats it.

In short

Surti food runs on a calendar. Undhiyu, ponk and papdi belong to winter; ghari belongs to the night after Sharad Poornima; fafda and jalebi belong to Dussehra morning. Eating well here is mostly a matter of turning up in the right month.

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